Tess Daly, baby bump encased in a royal blue bandage dress so tight you could peg the exact stage of her pregnancy and pals Erin O'Connor and Jasmine Guinness chatted excitedly in the front row, the house was so packed that the venue became a very posh sauna and editors fanned themselves with line notes whilst waiting for the show to begin. No they were not there to witness Giles’ latest, the A-list had made the 200 meter trek from the BFC tents to the On/Off venue at the Science Museum for Singapore-born designer and St Martin’s alumn Ashley Isham.
As the first look, a floral patterned white quilted rabbit 3/4 length coat cinched with a giant cream satin bow peeked round the top of the runway, you could see why they made the trip. Then emerged a lush silk aubergine brocade embellished frock—the fabric decadent, but subdued the depth of its plum hue.
The fabric was then reworked into an sharp-shouldered trench and floor-length backless pinafore—pure autumnal delights which struck a harmonious cord between elegance and pizzazz, the result of a creative vision tempered by tumultuous economic times—somber without resorting to black, reserved but not boring.
After the moderate tone of the brocade, Isham went in for the kill. A refreshing feat of craftsmanship—a model appeared in a multi-colored mosaic embellished Jetsons-meet-the-Tudors bustier and pencil skirt, a look so eye-catching it practically popped right off the runway.
But my personal favorite of the collection was a floor-length hot pink strapless jersey dress with black panels down the sides. Paired with little black driving gloves and gold belt to glam punk it up, the piece was incredibly versatile but still fresh—exactly what buyers today ought to be looking for.
Then came the eveningwear: swirls of brightly printed chiffon splashed here and there with beaded adornment followed by a smattering of white gowns in pure white bridal-esque silk or intricately hand-embellished with gold beading.
These were lovely and charming in their simplicity, but if you ask me, Isham really hit it out of the park with a tiered one shoulder black taffeta 80s style prom gown complete with flowing ruffled purple chiffon train. These discrepancies of taste speak to the taste of Isham’s collection: from the timeless elegance of the plum brocade and white gowns to the bedazzled futuristic corset and violet 80s ruffled train, there is something here for everyone. 
Ashish A/W 2009
Emma Bell A/W 2009
Friday, 27 February 2009
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